Cube pro unsupported filament5/30/2023 These supports, and everything else on the printer, are held together by a myriad of steel bolts, which makes for a very sturdy little box. It’s commonly used in sign-making, and it’s an extremely durable material. The machine’s frame is made from this stuff called Dibond - which is basically two pre-painted sheets of aluminum, bonded to a solid polyethylene core. The Ultimaker’s looks are only outdone by its build quality. This thing could probably withstand a low-magnitude earthquake. The motors are enclosed inside the machine’s main structural supports, and all the other moving parts are neatly hidden behind Ultimaker’s opaque plexiglass walls. It doesn’t try to hide the fact that it’s a 3D printer, but it also doesn’t look scrappy and cobbled together like a lot of printers do. You wouldn’t want to keep it on your mantle, but as far as 3D printers go, this is one of the more attractive options. Our unit was a bit fickle, and we had to manhandle it a bit (more on that later) in order to get the filament through the feeder - but after this initial hiccup, everything went swimmingly. The next step is feeding filament into the extruder. Without this guidance, it’s nearly impossible to eyeball a single millimeter. The quick-start guide suggests putting a piece of paper underneath the tip, and lowering it until you can feel some resistance when you pull the paper out - which is simple enough. You have to manually level the printer’s glass build plate by adjusting the extruder tip so that it’s exactly 1 millimeter away from the glass at all four corners. The next step is to calibrate the machine and make sure that the build plate is in the correct place. It only takes a couple minutes to get the machine set up and powered on, but after that, there’s bit of configuration required before you can start printing off that Hello Kitty toothbrush holder you’ve been dreaming about. Once you’ve got it out of the box, all that’s left to do is insert the build plate, plug in the machine, and flip the switch to “on.” Whereas the original Ultimaker required a fair bit of assembly, the Ultimaker 2 comes almost completely pre-assembled and ready to print. A well-adjusted Ultimaker can supposedly spit out ABS or PLA (it can handle both, regardless of the brand) at a top speed of 300 millimeters per second. It’s no slouch in the speed department either. In addition to massive build area, it also sports a maximum resolution of 20 microns - the smallest layer thickness offered by just about any consumer-oriented FDM printer on the market right now. Out of the box, the Ultimaker 2 boasts some impressive numbers. Sony’s new 3D display tech keeps getting bigger and betterįinally, you’ll soon be able to use 3D avatars on Teams calls The next MacBook Air could come with a major disappointment
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